Archive for April, 2008

Self-Actualization Through Caffeine

Sunday, April 13th, 2008

Any experience over time can become habitual, and the habitual by necessity loses its uniqueness, its excitement. In an era in which we strive en masse to celebrate the individual experience (witness the mass personalization of everything, from your very own uniquely assembled Timbuk2 tote bag to the literally myriad options available for creating your own custom-from-the-factory Harley-Davidson motorcycle), a company that delivers what we ask of it walks a fine line. No sooner have we been given what we want than we begin to recognize that it was the same thing as it was last time, or we notice with a diminished sense of uniqueness that it’s identical to somebody else’s experience. The very comfort and easy availability of an individualized experience causes it to lose its value (one of the reasons that perfect industrial diamonds and farmed pearls are orders of magnitude less expensive than the flawed items direct from nature). We begin to define ourselves by how we, as individuals, differ from each other in our achievement of being unique. Unfortunately, this comparison requires that we first have something in common.

Take, for instance, my seeking of local coffee shops and local restaurants. I drink Starbucks coffee regularly, and with pleasure. But when possible, or rather when convenient, I attempt to find something that perhaps fewer people will have found before me. With no vistas left to conquer on this earth besides the depths of the ocean, it’s pretty unlikely I’ll ever be the first person to see anything grand on a universal scale, and so I content my explorer urges with a search for whatever uniqueness I can find that is achievable within the context of my mostly urban life (the height of laziness, that I’m unwilling to personally pick my beans from the top of a mountain in Guatemala or Indonesia!).

Everyone who drinks coffee shares some aspect of the experience. I can say that I honestly love the stuff. I have a definite preference for medium-to-dark roasted, earthy, rich beans, though I couldn’t tell you what companies’ blends I like best, nor even what coffee-producing regions of the world I prefer. This probably describes most people who head for Starbucks on a regular basis but claim to prefer something local. Isn’t it grand, though, in a small way, to be able to say to a coffee-drinking friend that “I found this great little coffee shop while I was in San Diego,” knowing he has not been there, and thus can’t judge my appreciation of what is probably an ordinary cup of coffee, and instead must accept at face value the uniqueness of my experience; alternatively, to complain to another, “There are no good coffee shops in Washington, D.C.,” and receive an appropriately sympathetic response based on our shared appreciation of the minimum standard experience, Starbucks? And how true is it, really, this sweeping generalization? There must be some good coffee shop in D.C., surely. What if my friend says, in reply, “Yes there are! You need to go to X” (I’d offer an example, but I actually have yet to find a decent place in D.C. — even the Starbucks stores there seem sub par). The horror! I’m left, then to concede that my experience is not yet complete, and in the effort to one-up those around me in the generic appreciation of generic coffee, I am less unique than I might otherwise suppose.

And so, it seems that Starbucks, while creating a thriving market for gourmet coffees produced quickly and conveniently (a necessity for any American food commodity), has stepped into a trap of human behavior from which it might not emerge. By taking advantage of our innate desire to be different from each other and special to ourselves, the coffee giant has touched a nerve.

In moments of clarity, I make a choice between what will elevate, and what will not; what is an important differentiator of the individual, and what is not. Judgmental comparison of myself to others profits me nothing but a momentary sense of victory or defeat. Instead, to be conscious of how, why, and when I experience what I do, and become unconcerned with how my experience compares to others, but simply to value the experience for its own sake — here, perhaps, is the path to enlightenment through coffee. In short, consume for necessity, but not for any other purpose.

Did I just cross a line into asceticism? Momentarily, perhaps. Thankfully, “necessity” can be broadly defined, and I can still buy truly good coffee, and be satisfied.

Pour Your Brand — I Mean Heart — Into It

Saturday, April 12th, 2008

When does a local business enterprise, lauded for being unique, different, and — because of being local — inherently good become a chain? Two stores? Four? A dozen? At what point does a business, lauded for bringing a unique experience to the masses, become vilified for the sameness and blandness of the experience, which remains the very experience we asked it to provide all along?

There are many out there, I know, who denigrate Starbucks’ coffee — let alone “the Starbucks experience” — but let’s face facts. Before Starbucks raised the bar, there simply was no significant market for gourmet coffee. In making and taking advantage of this market, they have opened the way for thousands of coffee roasters and small local shops to do business. In fact, one might argue that the cheapening of the Starbucks experience presents an excellent opportunity for another renewal in the market. I’m not talking McDonald’s, either. It will be an unseen renewal, noted perhaps only by whatever small industry groups represent the independent coffee shop. Here again, though, is a fine line to walk. How much of the ease of the Starbucks experience will we give up in order to feel fully actualized in our coffee habits again? Will we wait patiently for a better cup of coffee? Nobody makes it faster than the guys in green. Will we enjoy a more complex roast? One of Starbucks’ advantages is that it will be the same every time. Will we spend time searching for coffee shops near our hotels, instead of just asking where the nearest Starbucks is? Will we frequent the copycats (Tullys, Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, Caribou Coffee) with the vain hope that this other experience will be more unique, by virtue of being available in fewer places and to fewer people, than the other?

Do the very patterns that enable success doom the large coffee chain to mediocrity? I’m sure these are the questions that Howard Schultz asks himself every day as he attempts to revive and revitalize his company’s brand and mission.

A San Diego Morning at Pannikin

Saturday, April 12th, 2008

Well isn’t this just the best of all worlds?

I woke this morning in San Diego, California, in a small hotel in the Gas Lamp quarter, and now I’m sitting at a sidewalk table outside a small cafe sipping iced organic Mexican coffee.

Vicky is here for a conference, so I’ve been left to myself the first half of the day. I wandered a bit, mostly just spending as much time as possible outside. April in San Diego is — how can I put it? — somewhat different from April in Seattle. A bit of a shock, really, to go from a hopeful 60-degree high to weather that hit the low 70s by 9:00 AM!

Pannikin Coffee Tea and Spices’ Blue Planet blend, like many Mexican coffees, is a bright, light coffee with a hint of cinnamon. As I type, the portable propane roaster beside me is busily torching to perfection some other artisinal bean, likely one I will enjoy tomorrow morning.

Pannikin is more than a coffee bar. In addition to selling brewed coffee and tea, there look to be about four dozen or more loose-leaf teas, and a range of whole-bean coffees suitable for any taste preference. In addition, the store stocks a wide variety of colorful south-of-the-border candies and knick-knacks, including a make-at-home Día de los Muertos candy skull mold.

Pannikin is a local chain that, by all accounts, strives for a unique experience in each of its locations. Certainly the ambiance of this G-street spot would be difficult to reproduce in any quantity, which leads me to suspect each store likely has some individuality to it.

This location, according to one staff member, has been in operation since 1977, making it only 6 years younger than the first Starbucks store. Clearly, the owners took a different path here. It is very different from Starbucks, and very much like those other Seattle greats, Zoka, Victrola, and Caffe Vita. With Starbucks, the size and layout of the stores is usually different, but the in-store experience is as similar from place to place as — dare I say it? — McDonald’s. While Zoka and Victrola have expanded only relatively recently to more than one location, Caffe Vita has been brewing at multiple sites for nearly a decade — in addition to their Seattle stores, there is a Vita at the old Dancing Goats location in Olympia (I admit, I do miss Dancing Goats).

Naturally, that leads me to another topic. When does an enterprise cease to be thought of as a “local” business and take on the dreaded “chain” designation?